Measures

Provides a detailed overview of various measure codes related to the sustainability aspects of buildings.

Input & output

The measures codes are essential for understanding and interpreting the sustainability features of a building, such as insulation, window types, and heating systems. It's important to note that these measure codes apply to both input and output within the API.

Wall insulation [wall_insulation]

Limitation:

  • 0 is not accepted for buildyears from 1983

  • 1 is not accepted for buildyears from 2000

Table: Rc-values

The insulation thickness used is specified in cm. The Rc values ​​are in m2K/W between the brackets. A high heat resistance (Rc) corresponds to good (high) insulation.

Houses built before 1920

The facades were built without insulation, but insulation may have been installed afterwards. Cavity wall insulation is very unlikely, since houses from before 1920 are almost always built without a cavity.

There may be insulation on the inside of the facade. Knock on the walls. Are there secondary walls? If the retaining wall was made before 1992, moderate insulation 5-7 cm is most likely. If the retaining wall was made in 1992 or later, good insulation 8-10 cm is most likely. Try to measure the space between the front wall and the wall, and subtract 3 cm from it (there is about 3 cm of air between the insulation material and the outside wall).

There may be insulation on the outside. This can be recognized by a thicker outer wall, which is finished with plaster or stone strips. Try to measure the thickness of the layer. At 8 to 10 cm: good insulation (often the case). At 13 to 20 cm: very good insulation (quite exceptional).

Year of construction 1920 to 1974

Cavity wall insulation is possible. Houses built between 1920 and 1974 have a cavity wall. The cavity is the space between the inner and outer wall. This space can be filled with insulation material after construction. Check the joints between the bricks of the outer wall. If there are drilled holes filled with cement grout. Insulation material was sprayed into the wall through these holes. The house has cavity wall insulation - 5 to 8 cm.

There may be insulation on the inside of the facade. Knock on the walls. Are there secondary walls? If the retaining wall was made before 1992, moderate insulation 5-7 cm is most likely. If the retaining wall was made in 1992 or later, good insulation 8-10 cm is most likely. Try to measure the space between the front wall and the wall, and subtract 3 cm from it (there is about 3 cm of air between the insulating material and the outer wall).

There may be insulation on the outside. This can be recognized by a thicker outer wall, which is finished with plaster or stone strips. Try to measure the thickness of the layer. At 8 to 10 cm: good insulation (often the case). At 13 to 20 cm: very good insulation (quite exceptional).

Year of construction 1975 to 1991

The house has cavity wall insulation of 5 to 8 cm. But perhaps after the construction, previous residents or you provided extra insulation.

There may be additional insulation on the inside of the facade. Knock on the walls. Are there double walls with insulation? Cavity wall insulation plus extra insulation on the inside together is very good insulation (13 to 20 cm).

There may be additional insulation on the outside. This can be recognized by a thicker outer wall, which is finished with plaster or stone strips. If so, the house has very good insulation (13-20 cm).

Year of construction 1992 to 2013

The house received 'good facade insulation: 8 to 10 cm' during construction. The chance that it has later improved to 'very good' is small. Exception: insulation standards have been tightened since 2009, so very good insulation is likely for the 2010 - 2013 year.

Year of construction 2014 to date

The house received 'very good facade insulation: 13 to 20 cm' during construction.

Roof insulation [roof_insulation]

Limitation:

  • 0 is not accepted for buildyears from 1988

  • 1 is not accepted for buildyears from 2000

Table: Rc-values

The insulation thickness used is specified in cm. The Rc values ​​are in m2K/W between the brackets. A high heat resistance (Rc) corresponds to good (high) insulation.

Insulation information about your roof insulation can be found in documents about your house: a purchase, an architectural report or the invoices for renovations.

You can also check your roof insulation yourself (from the inside). The year of construction of your home can help you with that.

Year of construction before 1975

The roof may still be insulated after construction. With a flat roof, you can see the insulation material on the roof covering, making it visible. With a sloping roof it is more difficult to check, because the insulation is often hidden. Below are a few tips on how to check whether the roof is insulated with a sloping roof:

Your roof can be insulated on the inside. If that is not properly finished, you will immediately see the insulation. If it is finished with plates, you may be able to check in the attic or behind bulkheads whether there is an unfinished part and the insulation material is clearly visible from there. Insulation material may sometimes still be visible with a ventilation pipe or smoke outlet.

You can check roof insulation from the outside by lifting a roof tile from a skylight. You can see the insulation material between the roof tiles and the roof boarding (the material on which the roof tiles lie).

Measure the thickness of the insulation material. Enter 'moderate insulation: 5 to 8 cm' if the insulation material you see is no thicker than 8 cm. Fill in 'good insulation: 8 to 10 cm' if the insulation material is thicker than 8 cm.

Year of construction 1975 to 1991

Your house has moderate roof insulation. In some cases it may be that the roof is extra (better) insulated after construction. The old material has been replaced by thicker or better insulating material or an extra insulating layer has been applied. Check this by measuring the insulation material:

Your roof can be insulated on the inside. If that is not properly finished, you will immediately see the insulation. If it is finished with plates, you may be able to check in the attic or behind bulkheads whether there is an unfinished part and the insulation material is clearly visible from there. Insulation material may sometimes still be visible with a ventilation pipe or smoke outlet.

You can check roof insulation from the outside by lifting a roof tile from a skylight. You can see the insulation material between the roof tiles and the roof boarding (the material on which the roof tiles lie).

Fill in 'good insulation: 8 to 10 cm' if the insulation material is thicker than 8 cm.

Year of construction 1992 to 2013

Your house received 'good roof insulation: 8 to 10 cm' during construction. The chance that it has later improved to 'very good' is small. Exception: isolation standards have been tightened since 2009, so very good insulation is likely for the 2010 - 2013 year.

Year of construction 2014 to date

Your house received 'very good roof insulation: 13 to 20 cm' during construction.

Floor insulation [floor_insulation]

Limitation:

  • 0 is not accepted for buildyears from 1988

  • 1 is not accepted for buildyears from 2000

Table: Rc-values

The insulation thickness used is specified in cm. The Rc values ​​are in m2K/W between the brackets. A high heat resistance (Rc) corresponds to good (high) insulation.

Insulation information about the insulation of the floor can be found in documents about the house: for example a purchase brochure, an architectural report or invoices for renovations. Or take a look at the crawl space and check the floor insulation of your home yourself. Use the year of construction of your house to find out how you can do that below.

Often the entrance to the crawl space is under the floor mat of the front door or in a corner of the living room. In houses with a front and back room, access can be in the bottom of the cabinets separating these rooms. Sometimes a door in the basement provides access to the crawl space.

Year of construction before 1983

Your house was not given floor insulation during construction. It is possible that the floor is now insulated. Take a look at your crawl space under the floor and you can check this:

Is there insulation material on the bottom of your floor? For example styrofoam, cork plates, cushions of thermo material, glass or rock wool or foam material (PUR)? Then your floor is insulated. If the insulation is less than 8 cm there, enter: 'moderate insulation: 5 to 8 cm'. Is the insulation thicker than 8 cm or do you see thermo cushions? Then fill in: 'good insulation: 8 to 10 cm'.

Insulation material may have been placed on the bottom of your crawl space. You can quickly see this from a thick layer of insulation material (styrofoam chips, bags with insulation material, shells) on the bottom. If there is insulation on the bottom of your crawl space, it insulates less well than insulation on the top of the floor. Please enter here: 'moderate insulation: 5 to 8 cm'.

Insulation may also be applied to the floor. You can see this if there is a thickening of the laminate or carpet. Do you see a bulge on the floor? Then enter: 'moderate insulation: 5 to 8 cm'.

Have you completely laid a new floor, with insulation? Then fill in: 'good insulation: 8 to 10 cm'.

Year of construction 1983 to 1991

Your house is moderately insulated during construction. In some cases it may be that the floor is even more (better) insulated after construction. Check this in your crawl space. Do you see a thicker insulation layer of 8 cm or thicker there? Fill in: good insulation: 8 to 10 cm '.

Year of construction 1992 to 2013

Your house received 'good floor insulation: 8 to 10 cm' during construction. The chance that it has later improved to 'very good' is small. Exception: insulation standards have been tightened since 2009, so very good insulation is likely for the 2010 - 2013 year.

Year of construction 2014 to date

Your house received 'very good floor insulation: 13 to 20 cm' during construction.

Living room windows [living_room_windows]

Limitation:

  • 0 is not accepted for buildyears from 2000

Table: U-values

The U-values ​​of the total window (including wooden frame) are stated in the table.

Whether you have single, double, HR ++ glass or triple glass is stated in a purchase brochure, an architectural report or the invoices for renovations. You can also check it yourself, by looking at the glass of your windows:

  • Do you see one glass plate? Then you only have glass.

  • Do you see two glass plates with an aluminum strip in between? Then you just have double glass or HR ++ glass. The difference between these is difficult to see. Sometimes the letters HR ++ are clearly legible in the aluminum strip. No letters to be seen? Then do the check with a lit lighter or match. Hold it in front of the glass and look diagonally at the glass. With double glass, you see four flames of the same color mirrored in the glass. If the second or third flame has a different color, then you have HR ++ glass.

  • You can recognize triple (triple) glass that you see 3 glass plates with space in between.

Bedroom windows [bedroom_windows]

Limitation:

  • 0 is not accepted for buildyears from 2000

Table: U-values

The U-values ​​of the total window (including wooden frame) are stated in the table.

Installation [instalation]

The installation consists of space heating and tap water.

Installation types 7, 8, 9, 10, 29, 30 and 31 when given as input, will not be changed as installation type in the sustainability advice.

Heat pump details

Preferred generator: Air-water heat pump with a capacity such that the heat pump's share is 60% of the heat demand, efficiency 4.0, LT heating (<45)

The capacity of a hybrid heat pump is such that the heat pump's share is 60%. This means that the power can be different for each variant.

For space heating: Temperature level: high everywhere, except WP soil and collective WP soil (ZLT, θ supply . <45 ° C), and WP air and hybrid WP (LT, θ supply <50 ° C); COP WP air and hybrid WP: 3.9. COP WP soil 5.1

You can look up which appliance you have for your heating and hot water in your home documents. For example, look in the purchase brochure, an architectural or perhaps you still have invoices for renovations. Or view your installation. It has type plates and other stickers that give information about what you have. With the descriptions below you can recognize what you have in your house as an installation for heating and hot water. Heat pumps Full electric Temperature level: 50C in combination with underfloor heating COP (return): 2.8 (lump sum value from NTA 8800) Power WP: Not specified, assumption is that the WP covers the entire demand Heat pumps Hybrid Temperature level: 55C in combination with radiators COP (return): 2.6 (lump sum value from NTA 8800) HP power: 4.2 kW in combination with a 35 kW boiler The operating hours are based on the heat requirement and the average outside temperature. During the day a set point temperature of 20C applies. At night a reduced temperature of 16C is assumed. The final consumption of the heat pump follows from the required heat demand in the heat balance to keep the home at these temperatures.

A combination boiler or two separate appliances?

A combination boiler is one appliance that provides heating and hot water. Most houses have a combination boiler. But a boiler or gas heaters for heating only plus a separate appliance for hot water (geyser) still occurs.

HR, VR and CR

HR stands for High Efficiency. If your combi boiler is from 1998 or later (which is very often the case), then you almost certainly have an HR boiler. Check the rating plate or sticker of Gaskeur.

VR stands for Improved Return. If your combi boiler is from before 1998, you probably have a VR boiler.

CR stands for Conventional Return. That is an old type of boiler that is hardly still present in houses.

Hybrid heat pump

A hybrid heat pump works together with your boiler. There is a heat exchanger (smaller than a central heating boiler) near your boiler. Outside there is a device that resembles an air conditioner. The heat pump runs on electricity.

Complete heat pump - air

Complete heat pump - air is the size of a tall refrigerator and runs on electricity. Outside there is a device that takes heat from the air, it looks like an air conditioner. It is a combination device: for heating and hot water.

Complete heat pump base

A complete heat pump base is the size of a tall refrigerator and runs on electricity. The heat pump extracts heat from the ground. A well has been drilled somewhere in your garden (or sometimes underneath the house). So there is no unit outside that looks like an air conditioner. It is a combination device: for heating and hot water.

Biomass

The easiest way to recognize a biomass boiler is from its fuel: wood pellets. These are small grains of pressed wood. A biomass boiler is a central heating boiler for heating and hot water. Note: there are also pellet stoves for the living room; that is not a biomass boiler. Pellet stoves are not taken into account in Improvement House.

District heating (district heating)

If you do not have a heating appliance at home, you use district heating (also referred to as a district heating network). You do not have a gas meter in the meter cupboard, but you do have a heat exchanger.

Gas

A gas stove in one or more rooms in the house is used to heat these rooms separately.

HRe

The HRe boiler occurs only sporadically. In addition to heat, the installations also generate electricity.

Shower heat recovery [shower]

With a shower wtw (heat recovery), the heat from the shower water flowing away is used to pre-heat the cold water. The preheated water goes to the shower mixer and / or to the combi boiler or boiler. The boiler then has to burn less hard. There are different types of WTW: a vertical shower pipe is suitable for a bathroom on one floor. There are also special shower trays or gutters in which a horizontal heat recovery device is installed.

Solar panels [solar_panels]

Output of solar panels in KwH per year if "watt_panels": true otherwise it shows the number of solar panels.

The input and output of solar panels is measured in square meters, with a standard panel measuring 1,65m2. To determine the number of advised solar panels the result needs to be divided by the size of the panels of choice, the default being 1,65m2. Do note: if "watt_panels": true is used, the savings for the measure Solar panels isn’t correct in some cases.

Ventilation [ventilation]

Limitation:

  • 0 is not accepted for buildyears from 1999

Natural ventilation

With natural ventilation, fresh air enters through (flap) windows and grilles. The air is discharged through the roof with air ducts (for example from the toilet). The air flows 'automatically' through the exhaust (under the influence of wind and temperature). Until about 1980, houses were built with natural ventilation. Mechanical ventilation systems then became common.

It is not possible to input code 0, Natural ventilation, for houses built after 1999.

Ventilation with mechanical exhaust

With mechanical exhaust, the air is discharged using a continuously operating ventilation unit with an electric fan. This unit usually hangs in the same room as your boiler. Fresh air enters the living room and bedroom through grids. You can also recognize ventilation with mechanical drainage by 'valves' in the ceiling (kitchen, bathroom, toilet). Hoses go to the ventilation unit. Two pipes or hoses are connected to it, one with which the exhaust air enters the unit and one where the exhaust air from the unit exits through the roof. In the kitchen or bathroom there is a switch with multiple positions (1-2-3, or 1-2).

Balance whole house with heat recovery

Ventilation for the whole house, the extraction and supply of air are mechanically operated using a continuously operating ventilation unit with two electric fans (one for the supply of air and one for the extraction). Fresh air is supplied with valves in the ceilings of the living room and the bedrooms. Air is discharged through valves in the bathroom, kitchen and toilet. The valves open onto channels that lead to and from the ventilation unit. Four pipes or hoses are connected to the ventilation unit (which often hangs near the boiler). The system has been used since about 2000, but is not standard in all new build houses. It is an energy-efficient system because heat from the exhaust air is reused (heat recovery - heat recovery).

Ventilation unit per room with HRV A

Ventilation unit per room is a device in the wall or under the window. This unit directly supplies fresh outside air and exhausted air in one room. Heat recovery stands for heat recovery: the warm air from the room already warms up the incoming fresh air. A ventilation unit in the facade can be used in one or more rooms, usually in the living room and / or bedroom (s). The rest of the house is then ventilated by natural ventilation or with a mechanical exhaust unit.

Demand-controlled ventilation

With demand-controlled ventilation, the air is discharged via 'valves' in the ceiling of the kitchen, bathroom and toilet. Hoses go to a ventilation unit. This is a device that ensures the discharge of air. This unit usually hangs in the same room as your boiler. Fresh air enters through grilles at the windows. With this system, CO2 sensors measure the air quality in various rooms. The ventilation unit can then extract more or less air via electronic control. This ensures that the optimum amount is always ventilated: not too much and not too little.

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